When traveling to a new place, it always pays to have some insider knowledge. I was lucky to meet up with a friend in Kyoto who had lived there for a few years. I mentioned that I wanted to experience a Kyoto specialty - a Kaiseki dinner. There are scores of places in Kyoto offering this special type of traditional meal, and the cost can be outrageously high. But my friend took me to Tankuma, which offers a 9 course mini-kaiseki menu for a very reasonable price. There are a few locations in and around Kyoto, but we went to one inside the Takashimaya department store (located near the intersection of Shijo and Kawaramachi, on 7th floor of the store).
Kaiseki cuisine originated as a means to provide sustenance following a traditional tea ceremony, but has evolved to become a highly refined cuisine artform. Seasonal ingredients of the highest quality are the featured elements of any true Kaiseki menu. Many small courses are presented, with meticulous attention devoted to freshness and preparation. Selections usually include an appetizer, sashimi, soup, grilled fish, rice, and dessert; however, more courses can be included at the chef's discretion, but are sequenced to follow a traditionally defined progression. Visual appeal is of great importance in Kaiseki-ryori, often using natural elements like flowers and foliage to add color and interest to a plate, as well as using colorful service pieces. It is typically called "vegetarian," although fish is generally used liberally throughout (true vegetarian Kaiseki is also available, if you really need it).
There is little available information in English about Tankuma, but at 5250 yen, the kaiseki set menu I was served was a steal. Cue the footage...
First Plate (1st and 2nd courses) - The visual statement struk me immediately as the first courses were placed in front of me.
First course: sashimi of tuna (maguro), red snapper (tai), and squid (ika). Each was perfectly fresh and tender. The squid in particular had a fantastic texture where a firm bite gave way to a silky, soft interior that melted away - it's clean flavor was matched perfectly with freshly grated wasabi.
Second Course: (from left) spinach with sesame dressing, grilled chicken and vegetable skewer with cucumber pickle, vinegared whitefish pressed sushi (oshizushi) wrapped in bamboo leaf, roasted chestnut, and grilled fish cake.
A closeup of the unwrapped sushi. The rice was perfectly prepared (one of the most underrated aspects of good sushi) - each grain of rice was soft but firm to the bite, not too sticky but holding the formed shape. The vinegar seasoning was subtle with a touch of sweetness, creating a balance that enhanced, rather than overpowered the flavor of the fish.
Second Plate (3rd and 4th courses) - Tempura and soup. The soup featured a dashi broth with seasonal vegetables, mushroom, yuba bean curd, and fish (it had tiny bones left in, but was sliced with hundreds of paper-width slices to break them up). A slice of sudachi was provided to squeeze into the soup.
Third Course: Tempura - The tempura was fried to a light, crisp texture. Items included sweet green pepper (much milder flavor than green bell peppers), squid steak (same item as the sashimi preparation earlier, with fantastic results as a fried item as well), squash, and shrimp (one shrimp was wrapped in a shiso leaf, which made for a great splash of flavor - I would liken shiso to basil in terms of the pungency it adds, but the flavor is totally different). Coarse grained salt and ponzu were also provided as dipping sauces.
Third Plate (5th - 8th courses) - (clockwise from botton-left) Stemaed rice, broiled eel, seaweed salad with crabmeat, Japanese pickle assortment, clear soup with fish cake, steamed fish custard. The grilled eel was outstanding - fresh, soft, and moist, the texture and flavor were superior to the pre-made version used at typical sushi restaurants. There was also a nice sweetness that provided depth of flavor when eaten with the steamed rice. If there was one item that was not in the butter zone, it was the seaweed salad. Tiny strands of sea vegetable were suspended in a gelatinous broth that reminded me of (so sorry to do this to you...) snot. The crabmeat was sweet and delicious however. Kelp, gourd, and cucumbers made up the pickle selection. These are a Kyoto specialty, and are usually eaten with the rice. The clear soup was mild, and acted sort of as a palate cleanser. I was surprised by the custard, which was flavored with bonito shavings and contained a piece of steamed fish at the bottom. It was tasty and unexpected (for me, anyways).
Fourth Plate (9th course) - Vanilla ice cream with pomello. As good as this was, it seemed so simple to me compared with the intricacy of the previous courses. Perhaps it is a final statement on the philosophy of Japanese cuisine, whatever that means.
Admittedly, this was my first taste of traditional Kaiseki food,so I have no true reference for comparison. That said, I was thoroughly impressed. I've been to more modern Japanese places (see
Nobu), but this was my first encounter with the classic elements that make up the backbone of such acclaimed institutions. To prepare these courses and present them with such artistic beauty, a chef must have tremendous skill and discipline - this and the brightness of flavor from using such fresh ingredients were perhaps the most memorable elements of this experience for me. If I were in Kyoto again, I wouldn't hesitate to come back to this place. It seems an ideal place to get acquainted with the essence of classic Japanese cuisine - especially if you don't want to break the bank to do so.
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