This was a rather formal gathering, and the sophisticated decor and surroundings made me think about how tacky it would be to whip out the camera for an impromptu photo shoot during dinner. So I passed up snapping the first couple of courses, until my host, who understands my passion for all things edible, encouraged me to be free to disturb the ambiance and take pictures. I'm glad I did, as this meal was truly outstanding.
The dinner started out, as most Chinese dinners do, with a handful of apetizers circling the table on a giant lazy susan. Two standouts were whole water chestnuts, unpeeled, with a black skin around the edible white bulb part. I have only had the canned variety before, and let me tell you, these were nothing like those insipid excuses for food. Super sweet, crunchy, and crisp, every bite was an absolute delight. The second was dried scallop and turnip cakes - fried cubes of this pureed combo packed with explosive flavor. Their crispy exterior gave way to a soft interior that melted in the mouth, leaving a taste of fried goodness enhanced by the wonderful sweetness of the scallops. I would go back to this place just for these two things.
Appetizer Assortment - Clockwise from top left: Stuffed bean curd with dried candied tomato, lettuce salad, rolled chicken, smoked salmon. After the first two apps (you can see the black skins of the water chestnuts in the top of this photo), this dish was just okay for me. The candied tomato was a nice, unexpected twist, but other than that these items were rather straightforward.
Double Boiled Shark Fin Soup with Coconut - This, on the other hand, was spectacular. The perfectly executed broth was beautifully complex, yet clear and refined. Soft coconut added a pleasant sweetness, a perfect compliment, not overpowering in the least. And last, the shark fin, presented whole in its original shape. I've had shark fin previously, but this was the first time it didn't remind me of undercooked, flavorless noodles. Instead, each bite was soft and gelatinous (sounds gross, but it wasn't - promise), like eating the fat or cartilage off of a confit piece of duck. Its own flavor was subtle, having absorbed the flavors of the broth. I am aware of the controversy surrounding this delicacy, and encourage each person to make up their own mind on whether or not to eat it.
At this point in the meal, we were treated to roasted duck, Grand Formosa Style. This version was unique from other roasted duck dishes I have eaten before in that the pancake wrappers were made with whole grain oats, and the veggie accompaniments included thinly sliced ginger. Oh, and the duck itself was excellent - with beautiful crispy skin that simply shattered when eaten.
Sweet and Sour Short Rib - It's rare to find such a perfectly balanced sweet and sour dish as this one was, maybe impossible where I live, anyways. The beef rib was cooked nicely, still pink in the middle, with a semi-crisp outside. The soft cooked onions added a nice lift to each tender bite.
Steamed Grouper with Shiitake and Bacon - If there was one Chinese cooking technique I wish I could stuff in my suitcase and bring home with me, it would be how to create such amazingly perfect steamed fish. It renders the flesh a lovely soft texture, just one tick past "raw" and into "cooked" territory on the doneness scale. The fattiness of the fish adds an incredible, rich flavor when cooked this way. A soy based sauce accompanied this version, as is typical. But the harsh saltiness of raw soy sauce is somehow tamed to create a light, yet flavorful broth. So all this and then you go and add bacon? Genius. Obligation requires that I point out that the tofu, as is often the case, was utterly tasteless.
Braised Spare Rib with Rice - I have to admit to a certain disdain for plain white rice. But there are exceptions to every rule (sushi rice being the prime example), and this may be the biggest of all time for me. This rice was absolutely, without qualification superb. Not starchy, nor gummy. Not so sticky that it clumps together, yet with enough bind to give the illusion of creaminess. And al dente bite and subtle sweetness were the final elements needed to create the perfect white rice. Notice the fatty juiciness of the spare rib permeating the rice. Oh yeah. The braised meat was fall-off-the-bone tender, with the fat cooked long enough to become soft and flavorful. I now, for the first time ever in life, understand the rationale for putting some cooked item on top of a bed of rice. I'm utterly ruined.
Black Rice and Almond Dessert - This is not your average rice pudding, that's for sure. This nicely sweet (sweetened condensed milk?) porridge-like dessert featured the nuttiness of "forbidden" black rice enhanced with almond paste. It was rather rich, and provided a filling end to this fantastic meal. The deep purple color is derived naturally from the black rice, which turns this color when cooked.
Over the past 3 years, I've eaten a lot of Cantonese food. I'm happy to report that this was one of the best of such meals that I have had the pleasure of adding to my waistline. It ranks up in my top 5 list of Cantonese restaurants in Southeast Asia that I have visited. When I find myself back in Taipei, this place will most definitely find its way onto my itinerary once again.
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Have you been to Silks House? Please comment and let me know what you thought!
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