Bo Knows Cuisine: Hong Kong's Bo Innovation Reviewed

When I realized that I was going to have an evening to myself in Hong Kong, I decided to make the most of this rare opportunity. I began researching information about Hong Kong restaurants, and I came across an article talking about the city's hottest places to eat. This is how I met Bo Innovation.

Billed as a modern take on Chinese cuisine, I thought this place would be just what I needed after a week of traditional Cantonese. One of the main attractions of this place to me was the opportunity to sit at the "Chef's Table." This was the equivalent of getting courtside seats to the NBA playoffs, only basketball sucks and this meal was about to rock. Off on the side of the dining room was a small room with a bar and 9 seats. Here, the secrets of chef Alvin Leung, Jr. would be revealed before my eyes. Any dish that was going out to a customer, I would bear full witness to the preparation.

The restaurant was quiet that night, so I had the room to myself - and of course, the kitchen staff. I have this wild fantasy of being a restaurant chef some day, but I have had virtually zero experience in a real professional kitchen environment. Sor for me, this was the chance to see what a quality operation was all about. Unfortunately, chef Alvin was on a business trip that day, but his staff was well in command.

I chose the Tasting Menu Degustation. 12 courses of unique tastes and experiences. Let me break that down for you:

Starters

- Crab meat salad, obha leaf mayo, marinated star fruit, caviar

The obah leaf lightened the effect of the mayo and added a green, leafy vibrance to the dish. The star fruit slices were marinated in lime juice. This was a nice, light way to start things off.

- Okra with fermented soybean foam
- Drunken quail egg

- Toro and cepes (porcini) sushi, air dried foie gras shavings, candy tomato

This was outrageously good. The foie gras shavings added depth and power to the flavor, but did not overpower the toro. Simply fantastic.

- Grilled calamari with chili-lime, ginger, and green onion sauce
- Scallop tartar, kaffir lime leaf oil, Parma ham

Both of these dishes were outstanding. The slight char on the calamari really enhanced the flavor, making the powerful spicy sauce a great compliment. The scallops were supremely fresh, as evidenced by the perfect texture and clean taste. The lime leaf oil was a great way to add lime flavor without overpowering the scallops with acidity.

- Crispy oyster souffle, sour cream foam

This was somewhat unexpected in that the texture of the "souffle" was entirely homogenous. Foaming up the sour cream lightened the mouthfeel.

- Cauliflower risotto, black truffle, pigeon jus
- Steamed Chinese bread with minced roasted duck & pork

I know, I've said this about other dishes already, but the cauliflower "risotto" was truly outstanding (in quotes because chopped cauliflower was used in place of rice). The black truffles have this incredible aroma that can only be described as captivating. And the jus was a perfect compliment. Not to be forgotten was the bread and roasted meat topping. I would eat that for a snack every day if I could.

- Apple and almond juice, served over dry ice

I love when I am surprised by something unexpected. This was a delicious and creative palate cleanser.

Main Course

- Suckling pig cooked two ways - crispy roasted / braised in Jiangsu vinegar with chestnut

The crispy roasted pork was mostly skin and fat - tasty, but I would have preferred a little more meat. The braised pork was tender and meaty, complimented with the slightly tangy-slightly sweet Jiangsu vinegar & chestnut sauce.

Pre-Dessert

- Red plum compote, vanilla ice cream, dried plum granita

A contrast of flavors here, with the sweetness of the ice cream and compote foiled by the tart, saltiness of the dried plum ice. Interesting combination.

Dessert

- Bo dessert platter featuring lychee jelly, sesame cookie with chocolate, and passionfruit curd with dragonfruit

The lychee jelly was a new item, and it was a little too firm and dry for me. The cookie was nice, but the passionfruit curd was really the standout here.

Here are some photos of the staff in action, taken from the comfort of my seat. Although chef Alvin was not in the restaurant this day, his staff maintained the essence and the level of quality I was expecting. I was also introduced to sous chef Adeline (hope I spelled that right) who comes to Bo via France. She was kind enough to sit and chat with me for 20 minutes or so, giving me extra dessert and espresso along the way. Good luck to you in Hong Kong!

So overall, I had a great meal with some new and unique tastes. It may not have been as much of a revelation as Nobu was, but I was very happy with the whole experience and would definitely hit Bo up again.

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