Keller in the Caf - Making The French Laundry's Lobster Macaroni and Cheese at Work

So, I promised a colleague at work a homemade lunch something like a year ago. But between the busyness of work and home, I kept putting it off. As the months (and months, and months...) passed by, I grew tired of getting "the look" every time I ran into this guy, so I decided to finally make due on my promise. I was on the hook big time, so I wanted to blow him away. I needed to come up with something extraordinary - maybe even, something French Laundry-esque.

Chances are that you, like me, probably haven't had the chance to eat at The French Laundry (for those of you living in a cave somewhere, I'll simply say that TFL, under the helm of celebrated chef Thomas Keller, is considered the best restaurant in the US, if not the entire world). For "regular people" like me, missing out on this experience is probably best for the wallet, but yet incredibly disappointing. But all is not lost.

I recently picked up Keller's French Laundry Cookbook, which was published almost 10 years ago (I know, I'm a bit late to the party). The book is an unquestionable masterpiece, a treatise on modern culinary technique and thought. Keller describes and details the food as prepared in the restaurant - no shortcuts. He offers advice to help guide the home chef when things get complicated, but never are things dumbed down. Of course, this means that unless you have a contingent of sous chefs working for you, cooking from the book is generally time consuming and meticulous. And sourcing raw ingredients of the level of quality that these dishes demand can be quite expensive. But in my brief experience with the book, it is absolutely worth it.

Don't just take my word for it, though. One of my favorite reads these days is Carol Blymire's abmitious French Laundry at Home blog, where the self-described "nutjob" (hey, she said it) is blogging her way through this book with the goal of executing and chronicling every single recipe contained within. The impressive thing is that she's not a trained chef - she's just a regular Joe, er, Jane. Recreating French Laundry food at home is something to aspire to, but why stop there? Why not take it all the way to the office cafeteria? I intended to do just that.

This presented quite a logistical challenge. I wanted my food to be first quality - that is, it would have to taste like it was just made, not like leftovers or reheated slop. The thing is, there is limited equipment in my office cafeteria (that I have access to, anyways) for actually making real food. Here's what I had to work with:

1. Microwave
2. Fridge
3. Butter knives
4. Running water

Well, that rules out quite a bit right off the bat. I suppose I could have made something cold, or a sandwich, but that just didn't sound that exciting. Hmmmm... And then I remembered coffee time. Huh? I keep an 8 cup french press in the office for making coffee... with boiling water that I get from the cafeteria! So that means...

5. French press
6. Boiling water

My thoughts kept drifting back to 3 magic words from Keller's book - butter poached lobster - which is featured in several French Laundry preparations. Because it's not exposed to high heat during the poaching process, the muscle fibers do not tighten and sieze up, making the lobster uncommonly tender and soft. With a French press and some hot water, I can essentially poach the lobster on site in the cafeteria. No, not directly in the french press, as you might be thinking. Sous vide, of course! Now which dish to choose...

The most amenable to cafeteria cooking (and, I have to say, most appealing to me in general) was the "Macaroni and Cheese" or, (deep breath now) Butter-Poached Lobster with Creamy Lobster Broth and Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo (exhale - ahhhh). Just kind of, um, rolls off the tongue. Anyways, I figured that the lobster cream and the orzo would nuke just fine, and besides the lobster, there were no other elements that would require heating.

Before we start, let's be realistic about this - there's needs to be substantial prep work done at home to make this possible. But it was indeed assembled and plated in the office cafeteria, much like what would be done in a restaurant. I should point out for all of you book owners and Keller afficionados there are a couple of minor liberties with the dish I chose to take. For one, I wanted to include some type of vegetation, and I happened to find some nice pea sprouts in the grocery store, so I adapted that element from the "Peas and Carrots" dish a couple of pages away. I also left out the Parmigiano crisp. Sue me.

Steep the Lobster, Before - Hello little guy. No animals were hurt in the making of this ... Ah, screw it. Who am I kidding? Nice knowing you! Pour vinegar seasoned boiling water over your lobster off of the heat.

Steep the Lobster, After - The lobster has now been submerged for 2 minutes. This par-cooks the flesh just enough to allow it to release from the shell. Time to get this thing out of there and pull the meat before it cooks too much. Make sure to save the bodies for the stock.

Harvest and Vacuum Pack the Meat - The meat has been removed from the shell, cooled, and vacuum bagged with some butter. It's only partially cooked at this point, so it can be more or less treated like raw meat. Must be kept in the refrigerator.

Prepare the Lobster Cream - This photo is skipping waaaayyyy to the end of this process. Let's see, make a stock out of the chopped up lobster bodies, strain it, reduce it by half, add cream, reduce it by half again, and strain again. Cool and pack in a microwaveable (is that a word?) cotainer. This is about a 2 hour process, but the taste was, well, I can't think of a superlative that is strong enough to convey how good it really was. Just incredible.

Par-Cook the Orzo - Boil orzo in salted water, but remove while still crunchy. Rinse under cold water and drain. Pack in a microwaveable container. Keeping the orzo crunchy here will ensure that it does not turn to mush when reheated later.

Pack the Supply Kit - Lobster meat in vac bag, lobster cream, orzo, mascarpone cheese, pea shoots, meyer lemon zest, salt, and olive oil. Bring to office and place in refrigerator until service time.

When the time comes, find a space to set up your meez. This may be tough, especially in the middle of the lunch rush.

French Press Sous Vide Lobster - Since the lobster meat is already partially cooked, it only needs to be warmed through. I mixed boiling and tap water until I thought it felt right (about 120-130F, if I had to guess), dropped the vacuum bag in, and lowered the plunger to keep it submerged. I refreshed the water mix after the butter had melted and let it sit for a few minutes while prepping the other components.

Final Prep - Make the pea shoot salad. Combine the pea shoot greens (cut off excessively long stems), some salt, and the lemon zest. Dress with olive oil. Next, microwave the lobster cream and orzo to heat up. Stir together and add in the mascarpone. By the time this is done, the lobster should be heated through.

Plate Dish - Place a mound of the orzo mixture in the center of a the plate. Remove lobster from bag and place on top of orzo, tail first, then claw on top. Top with pea shoot salad.

At the risk of blowing my own horn, this was a spectacular success. The lobster was beautifully tender and flavorful, and that orzo... Makes me want to cry just thinking about it. Happy tears, of course. Not only did I win rave compliments from my colleague (actual quote "this might be the best meal I've ever eaten"), but I also managed to create quite the scene in the bustling cafeteria. No doubt people will be talking about this day for some time!

Now for some dessert. How about, ho hum... French Laundry donuts?

These better be good, since the dough takes a couple of days to make. The moisture in the dough is primarily egg yolks, so it has a nice richness to it.

These look fantastic, and they tasted even better. This is really bordering on ridiculous now. Just incredible. The beauty of these is that they freeze well, and taste freshly made after reheating in a toaster. Just use the bagel toaster in your cafeteria, if you have one.

Just ask yourself - why should you settle for cafeteria slop any longer? With a little know how and some pre-planning, (and the proper motivation, I suppose), you can eat incredibly any day of the week.

Duck Sous Vide - A Cooking Experiment

Sous Vide is not exactly a new cooking technique, but it is almost completely unknown in the home kitchen. It's scientific nature, not to mention the high startup cost for equipment, has largely relegated it's use to high end restaurant kitchens. But after watching this season of Top Chef where the winner, Hung, made liberal use of this technique, I was determined to give it a try.

In sous vide cooking, the raw items (usually some sort of protein) are placed in a plastic bag which is then vacuum sealed to remove all air and create a watertight seal. The bag is then placed in a water bath, heated to some precise temperature, and left for an amount of time chosen specifically to acheive some particular effect. Sounds complicated, but check out this example and you'll see how simple it really is.

Suppose you would like to cook a steak to a perfect medium rare (135 deg F internal temperature). Using traditional cooking methods, it can be tricky to know just when to take the meat off the heat. Too soon, and the steak will still be speaking to you. Too long, and you will be enjoying(?) a nice plate of sawdust. Even if you monitor the internal temperature, there is still carryover to worry about. Now instead, if you placed the steak in a vacuum sealed bag, heated a water bath to exactly 135 degrees, and placed the steak bag inside, in about 30 minutes, the steak will reach equilibrium with the water - that is to say that the entire piece of steak will be at 135 degrees. What's more, is that if you were to leave the steak in the water bath for an additional 30 minutes, the temperature would not increase at all! Thus, you will have a perfectly uniform piece of steak, cooked perfectly to medium rare throughout. And since the steak has not been subjected to harsh heat, the protein fibers will not tighten up and expel their moisture - meaning a more tender and juicy piece of meat. This is but one basic application of sous vide.

The tricky part is to keep the water bath at precisely the desired temperature. In some advanced sous vide techniques, a difference of even 1 degree could completely change the outcome. This is largely where the expensive startup costs come from. Some companies are now making dedicated equipment to manage the water temp (like Cuisine Technology's Thermal Immersion Circulators). At over $900, they are out of reach for the average home cook, but are fantastic gadgets nonetheless.

Vacuum sealers can be another money pit. Professional quality units are in the 4-figure range. Many on various internet forums have reported good results using the Food Saver (for about $100). Although sous vide is French for "under vacuum," the term is a little misleading. Yes, the food is packed in a vacuum sealed bag. But, the cooking itself does not take place in a vacuum.

Fortunately, I don't believe that you don't need any of this equipment to give sous vide a try. We can get around the need for a sophisticad circulator by using a large stockpot full of water. Since water has a high thermal mass, once you've stabilized the temperature at your chosen set-point, it should hold pretty steady for the amount of cooking time needed. A variation of a few degrees up or down won't hurt us if we're doing some basic sous vide cookery. And zip locking freezer bags sound like a poor man's substitue for a vacuum sealer to me.

So here's what you will need:

- large stock pot (the bigger the better)
- thermometer, with range down to 100F
- zip locking freezer bags
- plastic wrap
- stove (in this case, electric is preferable to gas, but whatever)

Before we get started, there are a few things we should keep in mind.

1. The temperature of the water bath will drop a few degrees when the protein is first added, since it will be coming directly out of the refrigerator. Plan for this by starting with a slightly higher water bath temp than the desired finishing temp.
2. Since the protein will not be exposed to high heat, it will not have a tasty brown crust on the outside. This can be fixed by quickly searing the meat on high heat once the sous vide cooking process is finished. But be careful - you've invested all this time and effort to bring your protein to the perfect doneness, so don't leave it on the heat for too long and foil this effort. A little oil and 30 seconds max heat exposure should do just fine.
3. If the water temp goes up too high - add cold water to correct. Likewise, you could add hot water if you need to quickly raise the temp.
4. It's a good idea to wrap your protein tightly in plastic wrap before placing in the freezer bag. This way, when you suck the air out of the bag and seal it, the plastic wrap will prevent you from inhaling raw meat juices - yuck! It's important to get as much air out of the bag as possible. Any residual air will cause the bag to float, and will not allow the protein to be in continuous contact with the water.
5. Use freezer bags, or something thicker, otherwise the bag may not be able to stand up to the heat. Also, it's best to stay away from the bags with the sliding zippers. They may close easier, but they are also prone to leaking.
6. It's also a good idea to stir the water frequently to prevent hot or cold spots.
7. Adding aromatics to the bag will perfume the protein as it cooks. But be careful of adding liquids as it makes it difficult to seal the bag properly.
8. I have to add that using this technique can be a strange experience for the senses. There are no sounds, no smells, and you are cooking meat in a water bath that you can safely plunge your hand into. It's just an odd feeling.

Got all that? Okay, let's roll.

Duck Breast Sous Vide

1 duck breast, skin removed and reserved
3 slices orange peel, julienned (skin only, no white part)
Fresh ginger, several paper thin slices
Salt and pepper

For the sauce
2 T Grand Marnier
1 C orange juice
1 C duck or chicken stock
1 t finely grated orange zest
2 T butter

Prepare the water bath by filling stockpot and heating the water to 145F. Mount the thermometer on the inside of the stock pot, so that you can continuously monitor the water temperature. Adjust the burner power so that the water temp is stabilized (for my stove, it was on 25% power - about medium low).

Season the duck breast with salt and pepper. Place on a sheet of plastic wrap and sprinkle top and bottom with orange peel and ginger. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Place wrapped duck into a freezer bag. Suck out as much air as you possibly can and seal the bag.

Place bag in stockpot and let cook for 30 minutes, maintaining the water temp at 140F. Stir pot periodically to ensure that there are no hot spots. Also make sure that the protein is completely submerged.




While duck is cooking, score the reserved skin and bake in the oven at 375, until the fat is rendered out and the skin crisps up like bacon. Set crispy skin aside until ready to serve.

When duck is cooked, remove from bag and discard orange peel and ginger. Adding a little oil to a hot skillet, sear on high heat about 30 seconds per side to brown the outside of the meat. Remove meat from pan.

Out of the water bath and removed from the bag.

After searing and slicing. Notice the color of the meat is uniform throughout.

To make the sauce, deglaze pan with Grand Marnier and reduce till almost completely evaporated. Add orange juice and zest and reduce until it becomes thick and syrupy. Add stock and reduce by half. Remove from heat and whisk in butter.

Slice duck thinly on a bias and serve with the orange sauce and skin cracklin.

Now that's a beautiful piece of meat. Not only was the meat cooked perfectly medium (hence the pink color), but the texture was like beef tenderloin. It was the most tender piece of duck meat I have ever eaten. For this plate, I threw in some potatoes cooked in duck fat, as well as some twice-cooked green beans.

Maki Time

A funny thing happened today - my lovely wife, Hollis, decided out of the blue to face her darkest fears and give sushi a chance. Maybe being pregnant is messing with her head, but a sushiofile (is that a real word?) like myself was not about to let a chance like this slip through the cracks.

Sushi is often misunderstood, so I would like to clear a few things up before we get started here:

1. Sushi is sushi because of the vinegar seasoned rice, not because of raw fish or anything else. In fact, some sushi items contain no fish at all!
2. There are many different types (styles) of sushi: nigiri, maki, temaki, inari, chirashi, and oshi-zushi - just to name a few. Nigiri and maki are perhaps the most well known in the western world.
3. The toppings or fillings can be fish, meat, vegetables, eggs, etc. and could be raw, cooked, blanched, seared, marinated, cured, or any other such preparation.
4. Sushi chefs are supposed to season each piece with wasabi themselves, so you shouldn't have to.
5. Dipping sushi rice in soy sauce is simply not cool. Not only would the rice fall apart, but it would absorb so much soy that other flavors would be completely overwhelmed. The soy sauce should be used in moderation to season the topping only. Properly made nigiri sushi can be turned upside down to dip the topping in soy sauce without having it fall off.

Okay, I feel better now!

I've made sushi a few times now, with mixed results. Believe it or not, the hardest thing to get right is the rice. Texture and seasoning are such a critical part of the final product, yet typically receive little thought on this side of the ocean. The toppings are the easy part, provided you have a good supplier of fish that you trust and a quality Japanese market nearby. The act of forming the individual sushi pieces can also be difficult, so it's best to stick to something simple at first. For this reason, I decided to go with maki.

Now what to fill them with... Raw items were out of the question (and probably not gonna happen anyways, even with Hollis in such an altered state of mind), so I thought we'd play it safe: cooked shrimp and veggies.



Shrimp Tempura Roll with Spicy Mayo

For each roll:

3 shrimp, fried tempura style and cooled (use a wooden stick while frying to keep shrimp from curling)
A few sticks of cucumber, julienned
1T spicy mayo (I use 2 parts mayo, 1 part chile garlic sauce to make mine)
Green onions, finely sliced
Prepared sushi rice


Cucumber Roll with Chive Cream Cheese

For each roll:

A few sticks of cucumber, julienned
2T cream cheese
1T chives, finely chopped
Prepared sushi rice

Let's start with the shrimp roll. There's quite a lot going into this one, so I decided to do an inside out roll, which allows a little more room on the inside for stuff. Using wet hands, take a tennis ball sized handful of sushi rice and evenly distribute over a half sheet of toasted nori. This might take some practice, and you'll probably end up with sticky rice stubbornly sticking to your fingers. Try not to have a conniption. When that's taken care of, sprinkle the top with toasted sesame seeds, or tobiko (flying fish roe) if you can find it.

Turn nori upside down and place onto a bamboo rolling mat, protected with a sheet of plastic wrap. Put fillings inside, being careful not to overfill. Try to keep all like items close together. It will make the roll look better when you slice it.

Roll nori tightly over toppings, being sure to leave about a half inch or so of nori visible (this is key).

Using the bamboo mat, continue to roll, making sure the end overlaps a bit. Use the mat to gently squeeze the roll so that it holds together.

Repeat for the cucumber, but this time keeping the nori on the outside. This time, make sure to leave a half inch of nori exposed at the top. I know, I know - terrible job of grouping the cucumber sticks together in the roll, not to mention that the pieces are not uniformly cut. Amateur moves, what can I say?

Wet the exposed nori with your finger. Roll the maki, making sure that the top edge wraps completely around the fillings. The wet nori edge should stick to the roll as you apply light pressure with the mat. If you like, you can use the mat to shape your roll (circle, square, etc).

Here's a useful tip - make sure you use a really sharp knife and dip it in water before slicing. This helps prevent the sticky rice from sticking to the blade and ripping the roll apart as you slice. It would be a shame to mess up all your hard work at this point.

Not quite up to the standards of Japanese presentation, is it? But you would eat that... Right???

I have to admit that I didn't care for the cucumber roll. The cream cheese was a little too soft, and just didn't tast like it belonged with the rice. I patterned it after the classic English tea sandwich (which Hollis loves). It was a good idea on paper, but didn't really seem to work.

The shrimp rolls on the other hand were outstanding. I would have been quite happy paying for those at a sushi bar somewhere. Although next time I make it, I will probably throw in some avocado. Love that stuff. This roll would also work really well with some nice raw tuna. That's the beauty of homemade sushi - the opportunities for creativity are endless.

Hopefully, making your own maki provides you with a great deal of satisfaction. A trained sushi chef could probably throw this roll together (and slice and plate it) in about 30 seconds, so don't bother timing yourself if you decide to give it a go - just do it for the fun. Sushi may be intimidating, but with a little practice, it can be conquered, if not mastered.

Chilean Sea Bass - A Valentine's Treat

Due to the big snowstorm we were expecting, Hollis and I decided to stay home for V-Day this year. I decided to prepare something special for dinner, and make it an extraordinary evening nonetheless. Here was the menu I came up with:

Gruyere & Australian Jack Cheese Fondue - Baguette

Salad of Mesculin Greens - Toasted Goat Cheese Round - Dried Cranberries - Red Wine Vinaigrette

Pan Roasted Chilean Sea Bass - Bacon Powder - Meyer Lemon Beurre Blanc - Sweet Potato Puree - Parmesan Crisps

Domori Dark Chocolate - Beppe Marino Piemonte Brachetto "Bramusa"

I have to be straight with you - I have a thing for sea bass (don't be a hater, I buy MSC certified). I didn't know this until recently, "Chilean Sea Bass" is a marketing friendly name for what is really the Patagonian Toothfish. Somehow that just doesn't roll off the tongue, does it? Call it whatever you want - this fish is dang tasty. Here's the technique for the main dish, which I would highly recommend if you do sea creatures. Feel free to substitute a different fish if you like - salmon or halibut would work particularly well. But sea bass rocks.


Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass
Serves 2


2 6oz fillets Chilean Sea Bass
1 pc bacon, cooked crispy and pulverized
Sea salt

For the Beurre Blanc:
1 small shallot, finely diced
3 T dry Vermouth
2 T white wine vinegar
Juice of 1/2 Meyer lemon
1/2 c butter

For the Sweet Potato Puree:
1 decent size sweet potato
Cinnamon, a few shakes
Nutmeg, fresh grated
1 T Brown sugar
Butter
Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana cheese

Brush fish with a little olive oil, season with salt, and sear in a hot nonstick pan. Flip over when a nice golden crust has formed (about 4-5 minutes). Continue cooking for another 5-6 minutes or so. Fish should be just barely cooked through the center (medium). Place fish on a generous reservoir of beurre blanc and sprinkle with bacon dust.

For the Beurre Blanc: Simmer shallots, vinegar, vermouth, and lemon juice over medium heat until the liquid is reduced almost to nothing. Remove pan from heat and add butter in small increments to the pan while whisking continuously, until all is added. Mixture should thicken slightly as butter is added. Make sure each addition of butter is completely incorporated before adding more.

For Sweet Potato Puree: Roast sweet potato at 400 degrees for about an hour - or do what I do and microwave it for 6 minutes. Scoop out insides and mash. Add cinnamon, nutmeg, brown sugar, and butter and stir vigorously.

For Parmesan Crisps: Pile 1 T sized mounds of grated parm every 6" on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place in 400 degree oven until cheese melts and starts to bubble, about 3 minutes. Take care not to burn the cheese - this tastes really bad.

Porcini - The King of Fungus

The other day I was out food shopping, when I spotted a rare item not usually found adorning grocery store shelves. I had seen the dried variety before (and cooked with them several times), but this was my first face to face encounter with fresh Porcini mushrooms. If you know me at all, then you know that this meant a challenge - one that I would have to accept.

Porcini go by many other names, but the latin name Boletus Edulis tells the story (Boletus means superior mushroom). These fungi are highly regarded in many parts of the world, most notably in Italy.

I sifted through the bin and grabbed a couple of decent looking specimens. Some looked like they were a bit past their prime, but most would be just fine if used right away. I wasn't about to let my produce-pickiness get in the way of taking some of these babies home.

Ladies and gents - the king has entered the building.


A cross-section of this one reveales that familiar porcini shape.

I prefer to take a simple approach when deciding how to prepare an ingredient like this. Really this is key when it comes to cooking - when you have a great ingredient, let it be the star of the dish. I really wanted to taste the Porcini - not overpower it with other strong flavors. I decided to keep it pretty simple, sauteeing the porcini in olive oil, adding some pasta, and topping it off with a little Parmigiano Reggiano. Simple, but perfect. I wrote up the technique for you to try at the bottom of the post.

Having used dried porcini on a number of occasions, I was really curious how the fresh ones would compare. I didn't have to wait long to find out - when the mushrooms first hit the hot oil, this incredible aroma was released. It was not the familiar earthy smell of the dried porcini, but something much more delicate and intriguing.

Oh yeah - sizzle for me baby! Hit me with that aroma!

The mushrooms were absorbing the oil and turning a nice golden color. When the pasta was ready, I tossed in the sautee and some Parmigiano. Time to taste.

Flavor wise, the fresh porcini had the same general taste as the dried ones. However, I think the earthiness tends to be a little more concentrated in dried form - I prefered the mellowness of the fresh variety. Also, the texture of the fresh was softer and meatier - also a plus. But the biggest difference I noticed was in the aroma. Each forkfull that ascended to my face brought this permeating wave of olfactory sensation, reminding me of the captivating scent of the mushroom's cousin - truffles. This aspect alone makes fresh porcini the hands down winners.

As I mentioned already, finding these in your local market may be tough. But if you dig mushrooms, searching these out is well worth the effort.


Pasta with Porcini and Parmigiano

For each person: 1/4 lb spaghettini 1/4 lb fresh porcini mushrooms, sliced thinly 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped olive oil Parmigiano Reggiano cheese salt

Generously salt pasta water and bring to a boil. Heat about 1/4c of olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the porcini and give them a quick toss in the pan. At this time, also add the pasta to the boiling water. The pasta should take about 7-8 minutes - remember, pasta never waits for it's toppings!

Give the mushrooms a toss every couple of minutes. They should start to become slightly golden. For the last minute of the sautee, add the garlic.

When the pasta is done (al dente), drain and add to the mushroom pan. Toss to coat pasta in the oil, adding more if necessary. Grate plenty of Parmigiano on top and server right away.

Notes: You can use dried porcini if fresh aren't available. Simply reconstitute them with some hot water and let them steep for 10 minutes or so. Then use them like the fresh ones.

This works well with other mushrooms too. I would stay away from the common white button mushrooms for this dish though - the mushroominess (nice word, huh?) is just a little too strong for my taste here.

I think tagliatelle or pappardelle would have been better choices for the pasta, but I didn't have any in the house. Oh well.

Confit is Neat

If you have never had the pleasure of eating duck confit, you are missing out on one delicious life experience. Don't be put off - it sounds fancy, but all "confit" means is that the duck has been salted and slowly cooked in fat - traditionally it's own fat. I know, sounds somewhat frightening, but remember that duck fat is one of the tastiest substances on the planet and that slow cooking over low heat makes the meat fall-off-the-bone tender.

I decided to make a risotto out of my confit. Since duck has a fairly strong flavor, I thought that Parmigiano Reggiano would stand up nicely as a complimentary flavor due to its sharpness and nuttiness.

Risotto with Duck Confit and Parmigiano


1 c arborio or carnaroli rice
3 c chicken stock
1/2 c dry white wine
1 medium onion, diced finely (about 3/4 c)
1 t fresh thyme, leaves picked from stems
2 confit duck legs
1/2 c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
3 T duck fat or olive oil
Salt and pepper

Serves 4 as a first plate or 2 as a main dish

Sautee the onion in the duck fat over medium heat until the onion starts to turn translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat the rice grains with the fat. Let the rice "toast", stirring frequently until it begins to give off a nutty aroma. This should take about 4 minutes.

Add the wine and stir frequently, until it is absorbed. Add 1/2 c of the stock and continue stirring. When this stock is absorbed, add another 1/2 c of stock. Repeat this process, remembering to stir frequently, until the rice is just cooked. It should still have a chewey bite to it, but should not be at all crunchy (this is al dente). During the last 5 minutes of this process, shred the duck meat and add to the pot along with the thyme, salt, and pepper. When the rice is done, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the Parmigiano. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes before serving.



Duck Confit

2-3 c duck fat
2 duck legs
Kosher salt and pepper

This is so simple and yet so unbelievably good. If you don't have enough duck fat, throw some bacon fat in to help. Not traditional, but tastes fantastic. When you're done, put the fat in a container and store in the freezer to use next time.

Preheat the oven to 225. Season the duck legs with the salt and pepper. In a small pot, sear legs over medium-high heat until skin begins to turn golden brown. Add fat to the pan until the legs are completely covered. Cover the pan with a lid and place in the oven for 3-4 hours.

Note: Traditional duck confit would be salted and stored in the refrigerator overnight prior to cooking. This helps preserve the meat. This never lasts long in my house, so I usually skip this step.

The Tasting

Part 3

Just like with the sausages, it was difficult to let a day go by without going down to the basement to check on the progress of my experiment. Within a couple of days, the surface of the meat was dry and began to darken in color.

I should point out that the meat was hanging just 10 feet or so away from the washer and dryer. So every time that my lovely wife was downstairs to do a load of laundry, she was forced to come face to face with the jowls. Some of you may be wondering what her thoughts were about this whole meat curing madness - I think it best that she speak for herself.

"That thing better not smell!"
"How long does it have to be there?"
"I'm not eating any of that, you know."
"That's disgusting - I can't stand to look at it."

Yup, that about sums it up.

The 6 weeks came and went pretty quickly (partially aided by a two week trip to China). It was time to cut it down and eat. I washed off the salt which had dried and hardened into a rigid shell, trimmed the end, and carved myself a thin slice. It tasted a lot like prosciutto, but less salty. This was a good sign. Since guanciale is almost always cooked before serving, I sliced off another piece and sauteed it up. The flavor was surprisingly like bacon despite the complete lack of smoke used in the preparation process. However, the flavor was richer and, well, meatier. And it was awesome!

Honestly, as a first foray, I would have been quite happy if the stuff had been simply edible. Instead, I got something that surpassed my wildest expectations. If I had known how good this was going to be, those 6 weeks would have been a lot longer! I wrapped my prize in a freezer bag and placed it delicately in the fridge. I went to sleep a happy man that night. Two days later, having experienced no health issues, I was confident that the guanciale was safe to eat.

With a viable product to use, I could now get down to the businiss of cooking with my guanciale. I decided to first try an old favorite, Pasta alla Carbonara. I had always made this dish with pancetta (which there's nothing wrong with), but I was told that guanciale makes an especially mean carbonara. I have included my own recipe at the end of this post. Let's just say that you should make this - even if you can't get your hands on some guanciale. Pancetta will make a great dish too, just different.

So I made carbonara for dinner, with a skeptical wife squinting her eyes at me with a look that said, "You're not going to make me eat that, are you?" When I was done, I prepared a plate and brought it out to my bride. Now that there was hot, ridiculously good looking food that smelled great out on the table, Hollis began to rethink her vehement protesting. She enjoyed every bite.

With this rousing success under my belt, I turned my attention to the most famous of guanciale dishes - Bucatini all'Amatriciana. Since I had never had this dish, I used the method that Josh Friedland described in his article. Once again, the dish was fantastic. The tomatoes and hot spice are a nice compliment to the richness and flavor of the guanciale in this dish. I would definitely make this again.

Pork-face pasta aka Bucatini all'Amatriciana

I still have about 2/3 of the guanciale sitting safely in the fridge, so if anyone is interested in taking some, let me know. And if you happen to be in the Fitchburg area, come on by and experience the fatty goodness for yourself. Maybe this is the only fitting end to this story. It's one thing to read about food, but real understanding can only come in the tasting of it.


Part 1 - In Pursuit of Guanciale
Part 2 - Getting Cheeky

Rich's Carbonara
Serves 2 as a main dish

1/4 lb guanciale, sliced and roughly chopped
1/2 c dry white wine
2 eggs
1/4 c grated pecorino romano cheese
1/2 c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Lots of freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb pasta - I prefer tagliatelli or fettucini
2Tbsp olive oil
Salt

Put a large pot of water on to boil. Meanwhile, get together all the other ingredients.

Once the pasta water has come to a boil, add the olive oil and guanciale to a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. The guanciale should brown and render out all the fat, crisping up in the process. While the guanciale is browning up, add 3-4Tbsp of salt to the pasta water and then add in the pasta. This starts your timeclock - remember, the pasta never waits for the sauce! Tagliatelli should cook for about 8-10 minutes, so keep this in mind.

In a medium sized bowl, beat the eggs and add the two cheeses and a good 2 Tbsp of coarsely ground black pepper (about 20 twists or so - you are using fresh ground pepper, aren't you?) and mix together. Reserve.

Once the guanciale is browned and crispy, deglaze the pan with the white wine. Scrape all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. This is tasty stuff. Let the wine reduce until it is 25% of its original volume, about 4-5 minutes. At this point, the pasta should be cooked al dente and is ready to come out. Take the pan with the guanciale and reduced wine off of the heat and add the pasta. Add the egg mixture, stirring continuously so that every strand of pasta is coated, but the eggs do not scramble (the residual heat from the pasta and the pan will "cook" the eggs, making a rich sauce). Top with extra Parmigiano Reggiano and black pepper before serving.